The first day of Moscow Fashion Week — how it was

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Every day from March 2 to March 7, the Moscow Fashion Week market is open in the Manege Shopping Center, where everyone can buy clothes, shoes and accessories from Russian designers, as well as a B2B showroom, a professional platform for designers and buyers. The market and B2B showroom are open from 13:00 to 21:00. There is also a lecture hall of the Moscow Fashion Week in the Manege conference hall. You can visit the market and lecture hall by pre-registration on official website.

Noble velvet, quilted dresses, ornate lace, flowing fabrics and tulle. We tell you what served as a source of inspiration for domestic and international designers and what the guests saw at the first shows at the Manege Central Exhibition Hall:

LENA KARNAUHOVA

In the new collection, designer Lena Karnaukhova has found a balance between elegance and practicality.The inspiration for the creation of the line was the concept of the seasons. The harsh winter was embodied in strict lines and an asymmetrical cut, spring in pastel shades and abstract prints, hot summer in flowing translucent materials, and autumn in various textures of products. The brand's new collection is designed not only to emphasize individuality, but also to provide comfort, regardless of the season and weather conditions. The women's line included dresses with decorative knots and overlaps of fabrics, flowing combinations, a whole series of coats and cardigans, as well as sets with shirts and trousers of a loose fit. Men's images consisted of jackets, cardigans, sets with a cape and trousers, classic and sophisticated T-shirts, sweaters and shirts.

фото: пресс-служба московской недели моды

Perce-Neige

The Moscow brand Perce-Neige presented a collection in which the image of lady like met with intellectual chic, and verified elegance with everyday practicality. The audience was shown a voluminous women's wardrobe designed for fans of a classic but elegant style for a variety of life situations. The epicenter of the collection were feminine silhouettes with an accentuated waist and a neat fit, flowing midi skirts, including pleated ones, as well as dresses, jackets and coats in universal shades of coffee, beige, silver-gray, pearl. Pantsuits were sewn both in strict black and in soft shades of red. The linings of dresses and outerwear are made of natural silk. The decoration of some things — for example, tweed suits and round—necked tops - is handmade and resembles vintage jewelry. 

фото: пресс-служба московской недели моды

Ermi 

The concept of the brand's new collection is based on the vicissitudes of time. The idea was embodied in the elements of ancient costumes of the XVIII-XX centuries, which the designer introduced into the new Ermi line. When creating the presented models, a combination of modern materials and antique nettle, linen and wild silk canvases were used. To convey the spirit of the times, all the products were hand-aged using a unique technique. Men's sets were presented on the podium, the top of which consisted of hoodies, shirts and jackets with nylon inserts, and the bottom was completed with trousers, mainly matching the top, and shorts with raw edges and patch pockets.

фото: пресс-служба московской недели моды

BITTE__RUHE

The young Moscow brand BITTE__RUHE took the audience on a journey through current trends — from gentle mermaid dreams to a dark medieval drama. The first part of the collection was a fantasy on the theme of mermaid core — fitted floor-length dresses and bell-bottomed trousers made of the most delicate fabrics with shining sequins, lace micro dresses and maxi sundresses (all in popular shades of rose quartz and light turquoise), as well as snow-white sets with metallized elements. The second part of the collection was dominated by black, and the silhouettes were built on the idea of connecting the unconnected: the dramatic lines of raincoats and maxi dresses with voluminous sleeves are inspired by a historical cut, but complemented by sporty elements: zippers and drawstring. A short black down jacket with a fragment of deconstruction – an imitation of half a corset — reinforced this idea. Tight-fitting nylon mesh caps, which have become a recent hit on non-international catwalks, were used as key accessories

фото: пресс-служба московской недели моды

KUZINA

The presentation of the new KUZINA collection began with a performance by the poet Marina Vernalis, in whose work the designer of the brand Irina Malova found inspiration. Classic silhouettes and calm shades were complemented by textured materials, voluminous applications and large accessories. The Ulyanovsk designer paid special attention to accents — bright gloves and gaiters, mesh, fishnet tights and high slits completed the images.The line includes a sweater dress, a shirt dress, transparent combinations, a series of coats of different cuts, raincoats, T-shirts, trousers, pajama-style sets and sets with sweaters and midi-length skirts. The brand made an inclusive show and invited two real stars as models — Kalagina Martina and Khusainova Alina, who really shone on the catwalk. Strong, statuesque, they presented monochrome outfits with flowing maxi skirts and comfortable oversize sweatshirts. Previously, the girls had already conquered the podium, but they appeared before the Moscow audience for the first time. The confidence of the models was manifested not only in the

фото: пресс-служба московской недели моды

IRMASARI JOEDAWINATA

The brand from Indonesia, IRMASARI JOEDAWINATA, brought with it the atmosphere of a distant and foggy oceanic coast, which was opened to the imagination thanks to the smooth lines of silhouettes and transparent materials repeatedly layered on top of each other. The mood of the salt water and air was supported by a delicate natural palette, which was dominated by shades of pink chalk, gray sand, coastal stones, sea blue and tropical greenery. The collection left a feeling of freedom and lightness, despite the layering: cocoon silhouettes enveloping the figures of the models were complemented by balloon scarves made of pressed silk; the same pressed silk was present as the main texture of tops and dresses, resembling either sea foam or a blooming garden. Long textured gloves and large jewelry were used as additions.

фото: пресс-служба московской недели моды

ZA_ZA

Alexandra Koryakina-Nikolaeva in the new season talks about how a person becomes a person under the influence of society. The multifaceted images of the new ZA_ZA collection reflect the main idea of the collection, in which the masculine and feminine principles are mixed. Romantic floral motifs contrast with patent leather on accessories and shoes. Flying floor—length dresses, made in a restrained color palette, are complemented by voluminous colors, reminiscent of the long-awaited time of the year - spring. The main elements of the collection can rightfully be called textured coats with accent sleeves and perforations, which will complement both women's and men's looks.

фото: пресс-служба московской недели моды

DMITRYKYDRYAVTSEV 

The main emotional source of the Dmitry Kudryavtsev collection was the Rorschach test — as the idea that different people, when looking at the same picture, can see something completely different in it. Some items were decorated with abstract prints, but the main thing in the show was still the silhouette - laconic, elongated, reinforcing the lines of the female figure. The main palette of the collection, including black, red, white and silver, also did not distract attention from the shape and enhanced the dramatic effect. The catwalk featured sculptural jacket dresses with deconstruction elements, trousers with high slits, "nude" tops decorated with shining fringes, maxi dresses with unexpected cutouts and dresses made of metallic fabrics, complemented by contrasting velvet ribbons tied at the back. 

фото: пресс-служба московской недели моды

Dear Passenger N.

What should a modern girl's wardrobe look like? Designer Ekaterina Kibovskaya decided to answer this question in her new collection for the Dear Passenger N brand. The new season was inspired by the images of the first women in science — Sofia Kovalevskaya and Marie Curie. The designer fantasizes about how these great women would dress if they turned out to be our contemporaries. According to the designer, their images would be clean and understandable, practical, but at the same time unique. They would masterfully combine feminine elements with the restrained oversize inherent in a men's wardrobe. Loose silhouettes, patch with elements of the periodic table, corduroy and translucent materials are in the collection of Dear Passenger N. there are fashions of different generations, as well as an ode to these incredible women.

фото: пресс-служба московской недели моды

I.B.W.

The brand presented several collections at once, clearly demonstrating the combinatoricity and functionality of its products. A concise silhouette, well—adjusted proportions, the right fit and versatility are the key components of each element of the wardrobe from Ideal basic wear. The models featured dresses and shirts with accent cutouts, skirts, jeans and shorts, pantsuits, jackets of various styles, coats, jackets from men's shoulders and fitted jackets. Accessories were added to the images of special chic: pearl jewelry, a black veil, a silk scarf, a feather collar, fur caps, as well as leather belts, gloves and bags.

фото: пресс-служба московской недели моды

AO brand 

In the new collection of the Brazilian brand, the designer turns to the historical elements of the wardrobe — a corset, a crinoline and puffy sleeves — but rethinks them in a modern way. Traditionally for AO brand, the new line uses high-tech materials that keep their shape and tightly fit the figure, emphasizing the curves of the shape. Feminine wardrobe elements, corsets with ties, high-cut skirts and fitted dresses, coexist in images with voluminous and closed things.

фото: пресс-служба московской недели моды

Abzaeva

The brand's concept is to rethink the traditions of the nomadic culture of Buryatia. The history of the shamanic family from the island of Olkhon, to which the founder of the brand belongs, is reflected in the presented line. To convey her unique sense of form and time, designer Nadezhda Abzayeva used cuts, fringes and a variety of applications. The collection, made mainly in black and white, in addition to maxi dresses, corsets, longsleeves and vests, includes adaptations of a pantsuit and a suit with a skirt, conveying the atmosphere of traditional belief in spirits. 

фото: пресс-служба московской недели моды

by /DAS/

Upcycling has long been an important part of modern fashion. It is in this philosophy that the by/DAS/ brand works. In the new season, the brand's team turned to fictional and mysterious characters from Slavic fairy tales, which occupy a special place in Russian folklore. Models appeared on the catwalk in the images of mermaids, watermen and midwives. A daring combination of prints and materials, deconstructed jackets, asymmetric sweaters with loose threads, knitted dresses resembling sea mud, dramatic lace and patchwork — all these contrasting elements made friends with each other in the new collection of the Moscow brand, transferring guests and viewers of the by /DAS/ show to a fantasy world where absolutely everything seems possible.

фото: пресс-служба московской недели моды

BÜRO UNIQUE

The brand's new collection from Samara is called the "Mysterious Garden". Floral motifs are reflected in a delicate palette of shades, buds that decorate romantic corsets and elegant single-breasted jackets, as well as voluminous ruffles and ruffles that playfully complement light and feminine looks. Brand designer Alena Chipura presented the autumn-winter line to the audience. Similar to forest nymphs, models presented luxurious evening dresses made of organza, tulle and lace, made in candy shades, which created an impeccable and memorable image.   

фото: пресс-служба московской недели моды

Kirill Frolov

Главный редактор молодежного СМИ “Слово – за нами!”

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